Travels through Europe and our Cultural Patrimony

As an artist, one must consider taking pilgrimages during his/her lifetime. On these travels we find the fantastic and consider new ways of looking at art and the world around us. On my recent trip to Europe I had the good fortune to visit three cities recognized for their contributions to the arts, Venice, Antwerp and Paris. Each has a distinctive beauty all its own. One revelation I’ve made during this trip is that a specific province’s atmospheric light has a powerful effect on the artist’s creative conscience. Hendrik Willem Van Loon makes reference to this idea in his book, “The Arts”, a must read for any artist who wishes to know more about the history of the arts from a superb storyteller.
In reference to the Low Countries, it was he who said “that strange light that sweeps across a sky washed clean by everlasting rainstorms, has a clarity and harsh brightness which turns even the most ordinary articles of daily usage – a tin plate, a brass pail, a tile floor, a dead herring, a can of beer-into mysterious objects that lose their commonplace character and begin to vibrate with all the colors of the rainbow”. It was also he who said, “Then again, it may be the thin layer of moisture, which even on the hottest days in summer clings closely to pots and pans and man and beast and makes rheumatism one of the natural ailments of this dampish land.”
The quality of air that filters light through the low lying regions of northern Europe played a powerful role during the Baroque period to inspire artists to paint with richly colorful palettes. Rubens is a prime example. Looking at his paintings in the natural light streaming through the lofty cathedral windows of Antwerp, his colors swim with a fire seldom seen within the confines of a museum setting where electric light has replaced the original skylights intended to illuminate the paintings.
The floating city of Venice, mirroring the sky upon its canals, freed artist’s from gravity and sent them transcending to the heavens. This double effect of the sky permeates every crevice of the city and certainly influenced the Venetian artists. Varonese posed his elegant figures on high, giving the viewer a humbling perspective from below, while years later Tiepolo sent his figures sprawling into his billowing skies altogether. This soft quality of light can be studied in Titian and Tintoretto’s masterful use of color and soft edges to fuse solid forms with breathing space. . . call it chiaroscuro. As one artist recently pointed out to me during our exchange of emails, “Chiaroscuro translates into clear/obscure, not today's light/dark. There is a big fundamental perceptive, artistic, and humanist difference there.”
In France, I experienced days of crystal blue skies and sharp cast shadows reminiscent of the dramatic effects within Poussin and David’s heroic paintings. However, there are high-pressure days of billowing clouds and whisking winds that send the imagination flying toward the works of Watteau and Boucher. Paris has such a dramatic range of light that it is easy to see how French artists throughout the centuries embraced every stylistic nuance spanning Delacroix’s dark tragedies to Fragonard’s airy luminescence.
Later on, the French impressionists began to make their own mark by observing this play of light in Persian gardens, Cathedral facades, and French countryside motifs.
Going back to the beauty of these regions and the art that resides within them I must clarify what I consider beauty to be . . . as I am the eye of the beholder. What are beauty's distinguishing qualities? Three, say philosophers; wholeness, harmony, and radiance. To quote Alex Eliot in Sight and Insight, "Masterpieces must have something more besides; call it significance. Beauty is a source not only of visual joy but of intellectual joy as well. This joy is not to be equated with mere pleasure; it is more like an awakening. . ." Beauty is also a form of solace. Another wise observer, Joseph Brodsky, stated in Watermarks (his reflections on Venice), “the eye is looking for safety. That explains the eye’s appetite for beauty, as well as beauty’s own existence. For beauty is solace, since beauty is safe. It doesn’t threaten you with murder or make you sick.” Given these attributes of beauty; wholeness, harmony, radiance, significance and solace I would like to highlight some of the beautiful masterpieces I experience on my travels.

I was awakened by the richness of color and dynamic compositions of Rubens triptych's in the Cathedral of Our Lady in Antwerp. Within these paintings I also found solace in the figures and compassionate gestures in the central panels, The Raising of the Cross and The Descent. The Church of San Sebastiano, off the beaten track in Venice, is impressive for it's own internal harmony. Varonese’s resting place is decorated with his paintings and adorned with imaginative trompe l'oiel to bring together this wholeness. The unmistakable feeling of tension and release reside on these walls. Titian's entombment
and Michaelangelo's slaves in the Louvre reflect the same gut feeling on a very personal level. Michelangelo reveals this notion in every stage of his work. The tense figures struggle to release themselves from their unfinished state. Titian creates a hammock of tension supporting the limp body of Christ in the Venetian room at the Louvre. This painting, hanging on the backside of the Mona Lisa, is another perfect example of a well cared for work of art that hasn't suffered from over cleaning. What I have found in great art is the ability to create both significance and solace in one fair swoop, the tension and release of wholeness, harmony, and radiance.Now that I am back in New York, I am fortunate to find more treasure troves of art in a context outside of their original surroundings. The Guggenheim has a Spanish exhibition where one can see incredible works by Velasquez, Murillo, Goya, and Rebira. The Frick Collection is currently housing some fantastic European paintings from the Cleveland Museum of Art and a Tiepolo exhibition of drawings. The Met is hosting a show of American’s in Paris. While I have found great pleasure in seeing paintings that still reside in their intended environments, here in New York we have the privilege to view works that travel to us. However, there must be a limit to the amount of works released to the hostile conditions of international travel, commonly instigated by the new trend among museums to assemble “blockbuster” exhibitions. That said, if you are not able to journey across the globe to feast your eyes on the world’s fruits then at least make your way to these traveling exhibitions.
Finally I would like to touch a bit on architecture. Within these great city walls of Antwerp, Paris, and Venice one can become lost in the spiritual and intellectual influences of the past. It is a shame that some of these sanctuaries are being replaced with modern developments that not only destroys the architecture that has come down to us but replaces the past with our contemporary taste for clean edges and glaring glass walls. You may even notice this phenomenon occuring on the very pictures that fill the interiors of these threatened abodes. This modern aesthetic reduces beauty and symmetry to the most rudimentary of levels, the bottom dollar. Mark Twain said it best when he declared that, “[I am living] in the noonday glory of the Great Civilization, a witness of its guant power, sordid splendor and mean ambition. . . Wonderful in scientific marvels. . . in material inflation which it calls progress. . . it is a civilization which has destroyed the simplicity and response of life; replaced its contentment, its poetry. . . with money fever.”

Below I have attached some links to websites that bring these issues to light with graffic illustrations of architecture that is currently being destroyed in the name of money fever. Please feel free to sign these petitions to voice your concerns against these deprevations of our cultural heritage.
Recent destructions in architecture, see:
http://www.latribunedelart.com/Patrimoine/Patrimoine_2006/Nouveaux_Vandales_601.htm
For the proposed high-rise desecration of St Petersburg townscape, see:
http://www.intbau.org/news.htm
For a petition against the proposed tower in St Petersburg, see:
http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/petersburg/
And finally please link to http://www.metropolian.org/ if you would like to learn more about the looming threats of modern development in St. Petersburg.




